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The Ten-en hiking trail runs for nearly five miles through the northern mountain area of Kamakura, passing by a number of fascinating rock formations and centuries-old ruins and sculptures. Along the route, hikers may also find several yagura, rock-cut grotto-tombs typical of medieval Kamakura, which concentrate the most at the site called Hyakuhachi Yagura, or 108 Grotto Tombs.
In Buddhist tradition, 108 is said to be the number of vices and desires carried by every person, and often used simply to denote a large number with religious undertones. It is believed that there are actually closer to 200 such tombs at this site. Hundreds of samurai, artists and monks of the upper class rest in peace in this troglodyte necropolis.
Inside the grave grottoes are crumbling funerary pagodas and statuettes of the Buddha and Ksitigarbha, many of whose heads seem to have been cut off. This sacrilegious state was caused by to the superstition that carrying these heads would bring good luck, believed by local gamblers at the turn of the century.
While the site seems long-abandoned and neglected for centuries, a few of the stelae mention Tokyo in their inscriptions, suggesting that they were erected after the city of Edo became Tokyo in 1868. Nevertheless, there is a spooky feel all around, and it is no wonder that some believe the site to be haunted.
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Know Before You Go
The Ten-en hiking trail can be entered from several points in northern Kamakura. To get to the 108 Grotto-Tombs site, the Kakuon-ji Temple entrance would likely be the closest. While it is freely accessible, note that the Kenchō-ji Temple entrance/exit charges ¥500 for admission to the temple complex.
The highest point of Ten-en, the summit of Mount Ohira, is only 159 meters (521 feet) high, but the hiking trail is narrow or slippery at points and consists of steps naturally formed by rocks and tree-roots, so be sure to wear a good pair of shoes.
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Published
March 7, 2025